France -1066 to Concrete Cows

Sat here in the sunshine listening to the birds I can’t believe we have been in France for 5 weeks already. It’s certainly been an adventure, with a few ups and downs along the way.

We were late beginning our travels, as we had both succumbed to a bug, not a good start but hey ho that’s how it goes sometimes. After an extremely foggy trip from the campsite in Wareham to Poole Ferry Terminal and warnings of road closures and redirected traffic we weren’t at all sure how our planned trip was going to pan out. So dutifully leaving very early just in case, we arrived at the port in plenty of time.

Luckily our changed ferry date proved to be advantageous as the weather for the actual crossing was amazing and smooth, the fog clearing quite rapidly once we set to sea. Sailing into Cherbourg harbour with its man made harbour wall (second longest in the world apparently) proved to be very impressive.

We had booked into a Municiple campsite in Bayeux as a first stop. Primarily because it was a simple and direct route from Cherbourg and as it was our first time driving abroad for a number of years we thought this might be a sensible starting point. Also we both wanted to see the Bayeux Tapestry and visit the Normandy Beaches. As it turned out Camping Municiple Bord De L’Aure was a really good site. Clean, modern with well-tended gardens and really friendly and helpful staff, a fantastic place to start our French adventure. As we were booking as we go along we extended our stay by a couple of nights so we could enjoy everything the surrounding area had to offer.

www.camping-bayeau.fr

There was a lovely walk along the river into the centre of town. Where we visited the tapestry museum. Seventy metres picturing the amazing story of William the Conqueror, displayed in a curved glass unit and along with headphones explaining every panel in turn. A wonderful way to enjoy, understand and admire the artistry in this fabulous work. The story of how it survived as long as it did is equally fascinating.

www.bayeuxmuseum.com

Along with a very interesting cathedral, the old town of Bayeux is lovely to meander around. We found a delightful tea-room, with delicious chocolate cake and really enjoyed our time discovering the cathedral and walking the cobbled lanes..

See Facebook: Les Volets Roses

We also visited the Memorial Museum of the Battle of Normandy. We found this museum to be really informative, covering all aspects of the battle for the Allied Forces to regain control of Normandy. How it affected the local people and the bravery and help given by the Resistance Fighters.

www.Bayeuxmuseum.com

At the British Cemetery as with all Cemeteries of the fallen of both world wars there seems to be a natural silence when you walk amongst the graves. The most poignant for me always being the list of names of those men missing and their bodies never found.

We toured along the Normandy Beaches, amazed by the view above Arromanche over to the surviving Mulberry Harbour. The D514 entering Arromanche is a great way to appreciate the sheer scale of the undertaking of the building of this harbour. You can park at the Arromanche 360 museum (fee payable) where you can also watch a very moving 3D film.

Hillman

We admired the sculpture to the American Forces on Omaha Beach, Les Braves. We managed to get very lost whilst looking for the Merville Battery, as Pegasus Bridge was closed and try as we might we could not find another way over the river and ended up down a winding lane. Wondering where on earth we were going to end up we did come across Hillman and the brave story of the Suffolk Regiment who took this strategic and vitally important Fort that was part of the German Sea Defences.

We also visited the American cemetery at the top of Omaha Beach. A very poignant and moving experience. The site of the crosses of the fallen seem to go on forever. A little further along the coast we also visited Point du Hoc where there is an interesting museum and tour panels around the bunkers and batteries here, offering amazing views over the channel. It gives you an insight into what the site would have been like during the war.

American Cemetery

In some ways we were reluctant to have to move on as we were getting used to our friendly campsite and exploring Normandy and getting used to driving on the right, however move on we did to Mont Saint Michel.

Nothing had prepared us for the sheer size of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Because of the low-lying land around it Mont Saint Michel stands proud and dominates the surrounding area. We had such lovely sunny weather, the fact that it was cold didn’t seem to matter. In the early morning mist the island truly looked majestic.

Our campsite was all about the location within the barrier on the access road to the Mont. It didn’t really have much else going for it. The facilities were dire, old, not very clean and cold, but for the two nights we were there it served its purpose and gave us access to the Mont for a full day. You pay 9 euros per day to enter through the barrier, something that wasn't made that clear when we booked the campsite, so this is worth bearing in mind.

It was extremely busy but this didn’t detract from the sheer scale of the place and its colourful history. I don’t know how many steps we climbed to the Abbey but the views from the top were astounding. We took a tour of the Abbey with headphones (very reasonable cost we thought) and thoroughly enjoyed listening to the interesting history of the place as we walked around.

For people visiting for the day there are car parks, where they operate a park and ride system, as the walk from the mainland to the Mont is quite a way. We walked there and rode the bus back, having to queue and wait for a bus, normal I would think due to the sheer number of visitors.

There are shops, cafes and restaurants galore on the main road in, all very overpriced we felt. Together with numerous painted cows for that photo opportunity! Not really in keeping with the historical significance of the Mont and Abbey, but fun for the children.

Moving on we decide to explore the coast of Northern Brittany and found a site on the coast or should I say beach at Trelevern.

Coming up next:- Islands and Nearly Islands.